Disgusted with the turmoils of the world? Or perhaps just exasperated with your app addiction? Seems a solid time to press pause and unplug. Keep in mind, time still marches on… at least in most places. Fly up towards timeless Tusheti, connected to modern Georgia through a slight wrinkle.

Discover a collection of medieval villages scattered amongst mountains. Churches neighboring stone shrines wreathed with horns and the faded paint of animal blood intertwine the spiritual braid of Christianity and Paganism. These ceremonious offerings can only be gifted by the valiant Tush men as impure womanly vessels are tainted by their monthly blood sacrifice and would naturally soil the shrine. Indiscriminate stone giants tower above with watchful eyes. These towers, known as koshkebi, were used for communication coverage and defense during times of attack. Conversion to cell towers has not yet been considered and thus a strong defense to screen time is upheld. With foot traffic dominated by livestock, the hooves and hums of the herd further shepherd a tranquil climate. 

The Abano Pass is the sole gateway to this past period and can only be accessed from mid May to early October before the door is barricaded with snow. An annual question is posed to all residents as to whether to hibernate in isolation or to abandon home for the comfort of civilization. If the seasons allow, snag a seat in a shared ride departing from the wine regions surrounding Telavi or Alvani (I’d recommend Babaneuris Marani). For your easiest convenience, while booking your saperavi sleepaway organize transport with your wine host or see if a pickup can be arranged by your Tush host. Just ensure you allow a day or two’s notice for planning as it entails a 4-6 hour journey.

Line your pockets with fat stacks as you are withdrawing from the land of card readers and ATMs. Take into account the cost of transport there and back, accommodations, food, excursion activities, as well as souvenirs. If you’re a fan of spirited socks or cozy clothing, support the local craft by taking home handmade wool socks, slippers, or hats. Stay one step ahead of the holiday shopping game and get some stocking stuffers for family and friends. I say excursions simply as an acknowledgement for those with a hiking hesitation. Void of museums and tourist traps, travelers tend to trek to the neighboring villages or forest trails tempted by both cultural and natural wonderment. But don’t let that deter you as these explorations can be mostly achieved by car or horseback and include the luxury of an added tour guide. 

Things to do in Tusheti

Abano Pass

Imagine if the oncoming traffic of Toad’s Turnpike, the crushing boulders of Choco Mountain, and the snaking bends of Yoshi Valley were all incorporated into one course. Treacherous indeed! An outline of unguarded oscillations traces its way up the mountainside, its existence constantly threatened by crumbling landslides and snowmelt. Its danger ranked worldwide, Death Road is marked with the remembrances of its fallen passengers. Drivers must strategically outmaneuver the cliff edges as they jigsaw around one another for this 72 km test of fate. A roadside hut offers refuge for the intrepid trekkers going by foot or for those in need of a liquid courage pitstop. A look out the window may sound daunting but the sweeping scenes of tumbling terrain and gaping gorges will leave you mesmerized. Forfeit your fears for now and feast your eyes upon the feature film.

Omalo

Tushdown! Pay your driver and plant both feet upon solid ground. You’ve bested the Abano Pass and chances are you’ve chosen Omalo as your homebase. Boasting the greatest number of inhabitants technically makes this the social hub, but that’s a misleading descriptor when it comes to secluded settlements. On the upside you have Upper Omalo, crowned with the remnants of the Keselo watchtowers and nestled far below is Lower Omalo. 

Bochorna

The sole resident of this village is the undisputed king of the mountain with his home claiming the title of highest inhabited settlement in Europe at 2,345 m. Although not a king in profession, as the only doctor in Tusheti, he commands a loyal following from his dedication to the people of the realm. Bochorna replaces the Georgian west side story of Ushguli, another mountainous village, which previously held the title at 2,200 m. Ironic enough on both accounts as Georgia is an Asian country, contrary to the flutterings of the numerous EU flags. 

Dartlo

A shadow looms overhead, shading this stone village slightly darker than its neighbors. Before you enter, head to the right. Court is now in session. Stand upon the stepping stone and seek judgment from the arch of 12. The remnants of the Dartlo justice system suggests a realm of law abiding citizens.

Sit and sip in the medieval magnificence at Cafe Samtsikhe while allowing the mountainside waterfall to wash away the initial ominous ambiance.

12 km (7.5 mi) hike or 45 min drive from Omalo

Diklo

If you were attempting to reach the end of the map, you’ve arrived. Diklo is the final village before crossing the mountain lined Russian border into the Dagestan and Chechnya provinces. Stop over for tea and a snack at one of the few guest houses before prancing off to the fortress. You should not go back to Omalo without adding a visit to Shenaqo.

11.2 km (7 mi) hike or 40 min drive from Omalo to Diklo

Oreti Lake

Saddle up your horse and ride out of the city. Don’t make a lot of noise ‘cause the wildlife is so pretty. Rent a horse for 40 GEL or head out at the cost of your own two feet for this 28.5 km (17.7 mi) out and back Omalo excursion. If you are far from starry eyed with the concept of camping, consider opting for a head start. Have your host set up transport to Kumelaurta and skip the dusty paved prologue. Pro tip: If you want to see the water in the lake then bring some water for your own sake.

Make your way across the meadow and discover a path weaved into the folds of a forest blanket. At this point things are looking up, at least in altitude. Rise to the occasion until you reach a clearing. Hope you brought sunscreen because your cover is blown. Stumble along until you spy a dwelling suited for those with dubious dealings, but as we know, looks can be deceiving. Refill your water at the shepherd’s shack. A friendly “Gamarjoba” may just be the right password for a few shots of chacha and a guda cheese pairing (Hard to say which spelling’s actually Amanada’s favorite). Consider it farm to table as the Tushuri guda is traditionally ripened from within the sheepskin sack of the native flock. 

Charcuterie complete, carry on past the shack, over the hills, and through the ripplings of the rhododendron sea. At long last you’ll trickle across a stream and gaze down into the chillingly turquoise eye of Oreti. 

Places to Stay in Tusheti

You’ll need a place to rest your weary head after the Abano Pass adrenaline crash. Guest houses are available in most of the villages in order to tempt the traversing tourist. Amenities and sustenance are both sparse amongst the clouds. Take this into account when booking.

Guest House Tsasne

Just because it’s located in Lower Omalo doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be at the top of your list. Rock yourself into serenity with the rural town views from the second floor porch. Cozy beds adjoined by private bathrooms with hot water qualifies this as a luxurious living option. The breakfast and dinners are well worth the bargain surcharge. Expect a feast of Georgian dishes which changes daily. As with all balanced meals, homemade wine and chacha are served with dinner. The base floor including the kitchen and host’s living quarters are cut into the mountainside. The family includes a grandmother, two young kids and their parents. Conversations were limited due to the language barrier, but children’s laughter is universally understood.

Guesthouse Tushetian Tower

Cast yourself as a fairytale princess confined to her tower window or as a steadfast sentinel fused to his post. Either way your LARP set awaits you. Experience a fantasy escape within the stone walls of this Upper Omalo guesthouse. A tree sprouts from their cafe floor filling your cups with fresh air as a myriad of home cooked dishes shroud the table. A youthful daughter and her proud father team together, guiding guests in their explorations of the region. This place offers a one stop shop for those looking to tour Tusheti via vehicle.