Do you prefer lush forests to scattered palm trees? Mayan ruins to sandy snoozes? Rushing rivers to peaceful seas? It seems it would be best if you started heading West.
From Placencia depart via bus or water taxi and make your way to Belmopan. The water taxi will ferry you to Independence which requires a taxi to reach the bus station (and Belmopan). As far as buses go, timing is everything. Some go directly to Belmopan and others will drop you in Dangriga (~$8 BZ) requiring an additional bus to Belmopan (~$7 BZ).
From Belmopan take a final bus to reach San Ignacio (~$3 BZ).
Places to Eat in San Ignacio
Alexander’s
Sadly San Ignacio is seemingly sans late night restaurants. Best to shake off the stomach jetlag for those accustomed to 2100 dinners or be left scrounging.
Alexander’s is one of the rebellious few to remain open and feed the hungry, but is otherwise unnoteworthy.
Places to Drink in San Ignacio
Princess Casino Club
Winner winner stewed chicken dinner! Test your luck on the dance floor, and gamble away your chances of waking up in time for tomorrow’s tour.
Things to do in San Ignacio
Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Cave Tour
Belize is a surf and turf country. If scuba diving is the pinnacle excursion of the water then the ATM tour is that of the land, and both are absolutely worth breaking the budget.
Prepare for a day in the life of Indiana Jones. It is possible that all those who dared before you perished along the way as there is no picture proof.
The adventure begins with an immediate plunge into the Roaring River, slip through the current’s clutches as it attempts to carry you downstream. As you rise drenched from head to soggy shoe toe, trudge deeper into the jungle only to discover the river once again barricading your path, a forced rematch that will soon be followed by a third.
Victoriously emerge and face the open mouth of the Mayan underworld (Xibalba). As you boldly and sloshingly wade into the cave, allow yourself to be swallowed into darkness, a feeble flashlight and the sound of your tour guide’s voice ushering you forward. Fortune favors the brave. Aside from an adrenaline fueled spelunk, the sight of skeletons backboned by brutal stories of ritual sacrifices and Mayan customs will undoubtedly mark this as a top treasured memory from your time in Belize.
With just a scanty, daily allowance of tourists permitted, be sure to plan your visit through the hostel and solidify your name on this exclusive guestlist.
Cahal Pech Mayan Ruins
What’s in a name? Scare tactics for one. Cahal Pech translates to “place of ticks,” thus deterring all who fear the outdoors, a haunting image of a lair overrun with clingy vampires swooping into sight.
If this ever was the case, the ticks have since abandoned their posts leaving these Mayan ruins free for all to explore. Cahal Pech remains sheathed within the jungle. Its elevated location, once a strategic security tactic, has become the invisible crown of San Igancio. Remnants from between 1500 to 1000 BC support each step as you scamper about these stone structures.
It is a tad abnormal to neighbor with a Mayan ruin, and for those crunched on time this is a history handout. Huff it uphill until you spot a parking lot on your left.
Farmers’ Market
When the morning comes, hit the road stat and devour a fry jack at the farmers’ market.
Not a morning muncher? Still not an excuse to sleep in. Skip the alarm snooze and go for some windowless shopping. Peruse each stall, pondering over (Central) American apparel and accompanying souvenirs.
Continue the day’s adventure with a self-paddled tour of the Macal River. Kayaks are available for rental at the right corner nearest the river and next to the bathrooms (for those influenced by the sound of running water).
Green Iguana Sanctuary
Spend an hour familiarizing yourself with the conservation efforts and lifestyle of this threatened species and be rewarded with a meet and greet. No need to keep your hands to yourself with this interaction. Allow these reptiles to explore your body as you strike a pose in your iconic iguana studded suit and become the new Lizard McGuire.
Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve
Nature’s calling! Mountain Pine Ridge may blatantly lack in name creativity, but this becomes irrelevant as it is overflowingly full of splendor.
Careful in entrusting navigation by foot to the wily whims of maps.me, the marked path may dwindle down to the wake of an animal trail or disappear completely, and the prickly grass is painfully unforgiving.
The park is unfortunately inaccessible unless you book a tour or rent a car.
For the car renters, there are multiple campsites available throughout the park.
Spend a day splashing at 3 of the top sites.
Rio Frio Cave
Are you afraid of the dark? No need for flashlights in the Rio Frio Cave, its 20 m (65 ft) mammoth sized tunnel entrances have allowed the sunlight to invade this gateway to Xibalba.
Aptly named, the Frio River runs through it.
Rio On Pools
A natural escalator, the Rio On Pools are composed of small waterfalls continuously stepping their way down the mountain. With broken cascades of the Privassion River tumbling down rock stairs, a stark division amongst the encompassing forest, the aerial view is quite stunning.
Big Rock Falls
Further up the Privassion River, sits the Big Rock Falls. Embody the true meaning of falls by giving cliff jumping a try. Or maintain that ignorance is bliss by either sunbathing on the big rocks or swimming in the natural pool. Regardless of how you end the day, this sizable waterfall provides the perfect backdrop for your next social media post.
1000 Foot Falls
If you reserved more than a single day for Mountain Pine Ridge, head upstream from Big Rock Falls to witness the 1000 Foot Falls (~305 m). As Belize’s tallest waterfall, it seems exceptions are permitted for this metric system outlier.
San Miguel Campground
Live large at the San Miguel campground. With Big Rock Falls located just minutes away, awake for an undisturbed morning dip. As the day trickles on and the herds begin to gather, make your escape to one of the campground trails be it bird watches, bat caves, or Private Pools.
If you opt for the bat caves, prepare yourself for a 40 minute trek.
Pitch up and sit back to enjoy the starry skies above as the crackling fire drenches you with its smoky perfume. Feast under a personal pavilion furnished with both picnic table and hammock.
Got some apprehensive glampers in the group? Persuade them with luxurious promises of mattress rentals, showers, and toilets with running water.
Places to Stay in San Ignacio
Yellow Belly Backpackers Hostel
Persevere the uphill battle from the bus stop knowing each fatiguing step carries you closer to your precious pillow (and the Cahal Pech Ruins). A family production, the owner Bubbles (aptly named) possesses a sparkling personality, and not to mention with him the rum is never gone.
After attending at least one of Bubbles’ unbelizeable tours with your fellow yellow bellies, new friendships begin to bud. For the green thumbs, continue to grow these into blossoming lifelong bonds in the lounge room. For those without, enjoy the amusement of the surrounding chatter; a perk of being a wallflower.
With a grocery store to the left, a convenience store to the right, and a vegetable stand straight ahead, the only question is, what you got cooking? Even if you do not use the kitchen, you can still admire it as you skip through on your way to the loo.
Dorms and private rooms are available. Credit cards are accepted with an extra fee.
