Armenia

Armenia

Hayastan AKA Republic of Armenia

Why visit Armenia… 

  • Ararat – Dormant in volcanic activity, it is emblematic to the Armenian people. The  summit is the fabled dock of Noah’s ark. A fitting backdrop for the first official Christian country. Outlined on the border horizon, Ararat stands on Turkish ground memorilizing the 1915 genocide by the Ottoman Empire. 
  • History – Buff up with a country who has persevered through genocide, Soviet occupation & continuous territorial conflicts.
  • Water – The country is overflowing with the tastiest of tap water fountains. Perhaps the sheer number suggests a disguise for the long sought after fountain of youth (given the holy history). 
  • Wine – Welcome to (one of) the birthplace(s). 
  • Cheap – On a budget? Live it up without breaking the bank. 
  • Friendly – The country is overwhelmed with dogs and cats. More of a people person? Their sincerely, welcoming hospitality leaves you with an extended forever family.

Armenia is a struggle country for….

  • Gluten Free – Bread is basic. Some of the country highlights, manti, lavash & lahmajun, contain gluten, but there are plenty of alternatives so you’ll live
  • Carcinogen Concerns – Prepare to be perfumed with the lingering scent of cigarettes as smoking is still considered a quintessential indoor activity.
  • Timid Women – The men are upfront and relentless, but they do take “no” for an answer so you’ll live
  • Animal Allergy – Expect consistent precipitation of cats and dogs, but they typically will not pester you so you’ll live
  • LGBTQ+ Community – Predictably, coservative views prevail throughout this Christian country. There are no laws prohibiting discrimination. With that being said, Armenians tend to be tolerant towards tourists but caution is worthwhile. Yerevan (the capital) has bars and social settings for everyone.
  • Insolence regarding relations with…
    • Turkey – The Ottoman Empire massacred 650,000 – 1.2 million Armenians during the 1915-1916 genocide. Turkey also supports Azerbaijan in the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict.
    • Azerbaijan – The Republic of Artsakh is an ethnically Armenian independent state internationally recognized as part of Azerbaijan. The Nagorno-Karabakh region has been disputed between Azerbaijan and Armenia since both countries declared independence in 1918.

Entry Requirements for Armenia

Requirements are dependent on citizenship. 

The vaccine card with all required doses or a PCR test are sufficient for entry. Check the link below for the latest updates.

Remember to check your entry requirements for returning home.

Some countries do require a visa or e-visa. Click the links below to check the list and submit an e-visa. The application costs $6 for a 21 day visit or $31 for 120 days. Processing takes up to 3 days. 

Armenian Language

Learning a new language can be quite the undertaking especially one that uses a different alphabet and is specific to a single country. The Armenian alphabet contains 39 letters

Personally, I always try to make an effort to at least learn a few common words while traveling to a new country as the locals tend to appreciate the effort. See below for a starter pack.

Eliminate guesswork and ramble on with Russian. Otherwise, English floats in cities but expect to play some charades in the outskirts. 

EnglishArmenianPronunciation
HiBarev dzezbar-ev d-zez
ByeTstesutsyunts-teess-uts-yun
YesAyoa-yo
NoVochvotch
ThanksSchnorrhakalutsjunschno-rah-kal-ut-syun
You’re welcomeKhndremkh-n-drem
PleaseKhntromemkh-n-tro-mem
Excuse meNeerhorutsunne-rha-hut-sun
OneMekmehk
TwoYerkuyeh-ku
WaterJhurjhur
BeerGarejurga-rhe-jhur
WineGinigeh-nee
CheersKenadzken-atz

WiFi & SIM Cards in Armenia

There is free airport wifi allowing you to orient yourself upon arrival. Just about every establishment offers wifi as long as you do not mind asking for the password. Many of the parks and metro stations also boast free wifi.

If you plan on leaving Yerevan, I’d recommend picking up a SIM card from a Beeline store. Stores are located throughout Armenia. The card itself costs ~500 AMD and includes a 400 AMD credit. Choose between prepaid plans of 6 GB for ~3500 AMD or 12 GB for ~6000 AMD.

Note: Passport required for purchase.

If you plan on purchasing a Yerevan Card, you’ll receive a free SIM card.

Currency in Armenia

  • Banknotes: Armenian Dram (AMD) ֏ comes in 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000, 20000, 50000
  • Coins: Armenian Dram (AMD) ֏ comes in 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500
  • Card is accepted at most establishments in the capital but you should absolutely carry cash.

Transportation in Armenia

Quick Facts

  • GG (Armenian app), Yandex, UTaxi & taxis
  • Marshrutkas (minivans) – domestic & international
  • Train – domestic & international
  • International airports in Yerevan & Gyumri
  • Hitchhiking is normal
  • Borders: Georgia, Iran, Azerbaijan, Turkey

Trains in Armenia

The train definitely is not the fastest travel option but is nice if you value the extra leg room and are not in a hurry. Opt to purchase tickets in person otherwise attempt the fickle Railway website (registration required). Successful online purchase using MasterCard for up to four tickets rewards you with an additional credit charge

The daily domestic trains are divided between 1st class (plush seats) and 2nd class (wood seats)

Note: Passports are required for both domestic and international ticket purchases.

Marshrutkas in Armenia

If you are looking for an affordable option to travel from town to town, and you play nicely with others, this is the way to go. Marshrutkas generally will not leave until full, so they are not held to a strict time schedule. Trunk space is available but otherwise you’re limited to your own lap or foot space.

I would strongly recommend translating the destination into Armenian for your own reference (See below for some common destinations). Some of the buses will have signs on the dashboard written in English in addition to Russian and Armenian but many others only have the sign in Armenian. 

People in this country are always happy to help, so if you find yourself lost in translation just ask the nearest person, and they will point you in the right direction.

EnglishArmenianRussian
TbilisiԹբիլիսիТбилиси
YerevanԵրևանЕреван
ByurakanԲյուրականБюракан
DilijanԴիլիջանДилижан
EtchmiadzinԷջմիածինЭчмиадзин
GarniԳառնիГарни
GyumriԳյումրիГюмри
Khor VirapԽոր ՎիրապХор Вирап
Lake SevanՍևանա լիճОзеро Севан
YeghegnadzorԵղեգնաձորЕхегнадзор

Border Crossing from Armenia to Georgia 

If needed, your PCR test result, Georgian PLF confirmation, and E-Visa will be required for ticket purchase. 

Yerevan to Georgia by Train

Time to amble out of Armenia? If the date falls on an even (2, 4, 6,…), gamble on Georgia. Summertime, June to September, adds the odds, departing everyday. Board the rockaby railway at 2130 and start a new day in Tbilisi at 0730. 

Preferable to nightcrawlers and beach boys, summertime trains, June to September, leave Yerevan at 1530, making a midnight creep to Tbilisi and a 0730 splashdown in Batumi.

A class system in place, prices range from 12000-25000 AMD. Top or bottom? The imperative question for 2nd and 3rd class travelers. A bottom bunk (Нижнее) comes at a higher price

  • 1st Class (Spalny Vagon / CB) – 2 bed compartment
  • 2nd Class (Compartment / Купейный) – 4 bed compartment
  • 3rd Class (Platskartny / Плацкарт) – open-plan beds

Kids under 5 ride for free and those between 5 and 10 are discounted.

No need to bring your own blanket as the train has you covered. Attendees pass out sealed packages containing sheets and a towel. Each bunk is also afforded an outlet. As with all public restrooms assume the worst and pack your own paper. BYOB in addition to snacks to satisfy cravings and maybe meet your neighbor.

Yerevan to Tbilisi by Marshrutka (minibus)

Trying to make it in time for a dinner date? Chacha over to the back left side of Kilikia bus station for the six hour journey. 

Marshrutkas depart throughout the day for a fee of ~7000 AMD delivering riders to Avlabari metro station in Tbilisi

Border crossing can be a breeze but that’s entirely dependent on your partner passengers. No need to unpack for the Armenian exit, a passport walkthrough is sufficient. The same cannot be said for the Georgian entrance, you’ll need to carry your load along with the proper paperwork.

Food in Armenia

You may blank if asked to name your favorite Armenian appetizer. Initially from ignorance but afterwards from indecision. As one of the oldest countries in the world, the traditional cuisine has infiltrated the plates of most neighboring countries. Treat yourself to the country classics…

  • Fresh Fruit (especially apricots and pomegranates)
  • Dolma – mixture of minced meat & seasoned rice wrapped in grape/cabbage leaves served with matsun (garlic yogurt sauce)
  • Dumplings
    • Manti – tiny meat dumplings served with yogurt, garlic & a buttery tomato sauce
    • Khinkali (Georgian) – soup dumplings containing meat, spinach, cheese or mushrooms
    • Pelmeni (Russian) – boiled or egg-fried meat dumplings served with sour cream
  • Vegetarian
    • Yalanchi – dolma minus the meat
    • Eggplant Rolls – eggplants filled with a garlic walnut yogurt puree 
    • Bulgur Salad – bulgur (wheat based) grains mixed with garlic, onions, peppers & tomatoes 
    • Topik – chickpea dumpling
    • Vospov Kofte – red lentil and bulgur patties
  • Meat
    • Khorovats – grilled meat kebab
    • Kyufta – zesty meatballs made with onions & bulgur
    • Chee Kufta – zesty beef tartare mixed with bulgur 
  • Pilav – zesty rice
  • Bread Based
    • Lahmajun – crispy, thin pizza topped with zesty minced meat 
    • Lavash – flatbread
    • Zhingyalov hats – flatbread infused with seasonal greens
  • Soup Season
    • Harissa – wheat & meat porridge
    • Khash – soup of the herd containing boiled cow/sheep parts
    • Kchuch – claypot meat & vegetable stew

Alcohol in Armenia

Armenian Brandy

A Brief History: The Armenian version of the caramel colored liquid gold was first forged at the Yerevan Brandy Company in 1877, courtesy of Nerses Tairan, his Russian cousin Vasily Tairov, and a daunting dollop of French inspiration. But apparently this was before the gold rush, the company was purchased by N.L. Shustov & Sons in 1899 as a result of poor product sales. 

Tairan and Tairov may have written the prelude, but it was Russian buccaneer Nikolay Shustov who sold the story. With an almost monopolistic reign over alcoholic beverages in the Russian Empire combined with Shustov’s beguiling marketing strategies, the legend of Armenian brandy was born.

Brevity at its best – grapes are fermented into dry, white wine and then distilled in oak caskets. Armenian brandy bottles are categorized based on a minimum age: Ordinary, mere toddlers, for just 3 years, Branded for 5 years, and Collection which grounds a Branded youth to an oak barrel timeout for an additional 3 years.

Considered a cradle of wine, why not go back to the brandy beginnings with Ararat, Noy, or Kilikia.

Armenian Wine

A Brief History: In a tale as old as time, the biblical Noah is said to have made wine from grapes he planted on the slopes of Mount Ararat, thus conserving all species including the drunken animal. 

Decreed “the land of the vineyards” by the Urartian kings of 8th century BC, this founding father of vino further proclaims its nobility with the world’s oldest winery at the ripe old excavated age of 6,000 years

For thousands of centuries the vines have faced demise from numerous invasions. Over the last century before gaining their independence, Armenians were forced to mass produce brandy grapes for the Soviets who like their wine just like their governance, fortified. But like the people, the roots are resilient. 

Finally, the grapes of wrath are fighting back, replanting forgotten varieties, reimplementing old techniques, and reestablishing themselves as the creators of wine. 

The ancients of the Armenian land used karases, egg-shaped clay pots, during the production process. Although some winemakers have reverted back to this method, the brand Karas ironically does not. 

Opt for one of the following indigenous varieties:

  • Red: Areni, Khndoghni, Kakhet
  • White: Voskehat, Kangun, Garan Dmak

Armenian Beer

A Brief History: Barley anyone would contest Armenia as an OG in the beer regime with a barley brewed concoction documented as far back as 5 BC. Clearly beverage preferences were focused elsewhere though as factory production did not occur until the late 19th century, a byproduct of the romantic affair between the German pilsner style and the Russian Empire. 

Unfortunately, Armenia’s induction into the S.S.R., thanks to Lenin’s commie con, had a disruptive impact on the industry. Factories were nationalized and with uniformity comes a loss of expertise and quality. Worse still, the government turned against alcohol eyeing it as detrimental to the work ethic thus earning a slew of slandering propaganda.

Innovation past the previously preferred German pilsner style took its time to trickle from the tap after Armenia regained its independence in 1991, but this country is finally back in the game.

Feeling local? Choose from one of the usual suspects: Ararat, Dilijan, Kilikia, Gyumri, or Kotayk.
For a more ornate taste, take a sip on the wild side with one of the first Armenian artists of craft breweries, Dargett.

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