Welcome to both the capital and largest city of Kyrgyzstan!
The fortress of Pishpek (not a typo) was initially constructed in 1825 by the Khanate of Kokand to control local trade routes and force payments upon the Kyrgyz tribes. The despotic fortress met its demise in 1860 with Russian assistance (supported by the Kyrgyz), and the architecture was swiftly swapped out with a Russian settlement under the same name.
In 1926 the Soviet Union renamed the city Frunze after a Bolshevik military leader who was born there, and it was deemed the capital of the Kirghiz Soviet Socialist Republic. The name was switched to Bishkek (also not a typo) in 1991, just before the country gained independence and the USSR collapsed.
Contrary to the appealing description of a plethora of parks and the distant Tian Shan mountain range, the city appears to be set with an ominous, grey tone. Hold your breath as you tiptoe through it… but actually.
Housed in a cloud of smog, Bishkek has unfortunately trended on the world list of leading cities in terms of air pollution over the last several years. Coal is significantly cheaper than gas and is therefore the preferred option for home heating. The Bishkek thermal power plant is also a top consumer of this energy source.
Supporting local businesses tends to be a general theme around the world, but in this case, the brown coal produced from the Karakeche mines may just warrant a boycott. Although cheaper than importing Kazakh coal, these Kyrgyz mines carry both a higher ash content and a lower heating value.
Transportation in Bishkek
Arriving via land (bus or marshrutka) from presumably the Northern neighbor Kazakhstan? Do not expect free wifi nor cash withdraws from the bus station as there are no ATMs present. Oddly unhelpful. To resolve the monetary dilemma head to the nearby Frunze (throwback) grocery store to check out their differing ATM brand options.
If you are planning to depart from the bus station, choose a transport mode from bus, shared vehicle or marshrutka/minivan – depending on your desired destination.
Tired of walking? Hop aboard the trolley bus for ~12som or take the marshrutka (minibus) for 20som. If you have slightly more bills in your wallet, a source of wifi and a preference for private rides, use the Yandex app. Additionally, Yandex is a practical airport transport choice (although honestly it may be worthwhile to consider busing back to Almaty for an increase in flight paths and a decrease in total cost).
Things to Do in Bishkek
Oak Park
Take a stroll amongst the scattered sculptures through Bishkek’s oldest park.
Victory Monument
The memorial was erected in 1985 in dedication to the victory of WWII. The frame of a yurt is formed by three slabs reaching up to join at the tunduk, circular opening. An eternal flame flickers bright, protected by a guard of honor. A statue of a woman stands within, yearning for the safe return of her husband and sons.
Day Trip from Bishkek
Burana Tower
A lone tower surrounded by tiny stone faces resembles the imagined aftermath of Medusa moving into the neighborhood and forgetting to include “No trespassing” security signs.
The truth surrounding the origin of the stone markers may lack the heart rattling, deadly gaze of a snake permed culprit but still remains somber. These balbals are gravestones of the nomadic Turkic tribes of the 6th century.
In ancient times, specifically the 10th to early 12th centuries, the region was known as Balasagun and was capital of the Karakhanids. Constructed during the 11th century, the Balasagun minaret, an Islamic beacon typically used for the call to prayer, remains a testament of time. The Burana tower originally reigned from a height of 45m but has since crumbled down to a mere 25m through centuries of wear and tear and mostly earthquakes.
Just 1 hour away by car or marshrutka (#353), escape the Bishkek smog for the day and head to Tokmok. From Tokmok snag a marshrutka if you can but otherwise settle for a taxi. Entry was free during the off-season (winter) but supposedly costs ~60som.
Places to Eat in Bishkek
Stolovaya
The only word you need to know. These affordable cafeterias are sprinkled throughout every city in Kyrgyzstan. Grab your tray and begin. Select a salad, perhaps a soup, opt for some form of breaded item, pick your garnish and finally point out your main course. Casually step aside as they heat your platter and then settle up with the cashier. In regard to drinks, the classics entail tea, coffee or compote.
There is absolutely a sliding scale in both quality and price. Sometimes options may be limited and your food may not have reached a desirable level of warmth but it is generally filling. On other occasions, there is an overall advanced ambience perhaps highlighted best within the dessert selection but further reflected in a not too subtle price surge.
Places to Stay in Bishkek
Asian Home Hostel
A snuggly and affordable residence, best visited in warmer weather, contains 2 private rooms, a dorm room with both single and bunk beds, along with a quaint sitting room and kitchen. Everything seems a tad outdated including the heating system, but the candle supply did add a romantic touch during the continuous Bishkek blackouts. Tea and coffee are provided and the owners are delightful.
The address is displayed but it could still be considered a slightly hidden abode for those that require additional visual confirmation in the form of signs. The pleasant 30 minute walk to downtown can easily be skipped by the feeble-footed using the bus stop which sits directly across the street. Cash is required.
