Welcome to a region where a child’s first words are uttered in the Mayan language of Q’eqchi instead of Spanish. The natural phenomenon you seek actually means “where the river hides” in the local language. While in the area, try switching out “gracias” with “bantiox” (bahn-tee-ohshh) to show your thanks.
Arrive in Semuc Champey via organized shuttle / bus through your hostel or tour guide agency. For those cursed with the inability to sleep in these cozy cradles, prepare a minimum of 6 hours of self-entertainment as the forecast calls for a full day on the road regardless of starting point.
If traveling from Antigua or Lake Atitlan the bus should stop at the Cobán mall allowing you a final chance to perfect that jungle chic look as the rest of the herd migrates to the food court.
The bus finally unloads in Lanquín, its occupants scattering to each gather round their respective hostel chauffeur. Blatantly disregard guidance provided by anxious parents and be sure to stock up on cash at the one and only ATM before climbing into the back of a stranger’s vehicle. Stand your ground against the unsettling lurches for another 40 minutes as the tires juggle the pockmarked path below.
Places to Eat in Semuc Champey
Options are limited to hostel menus, the chicken stall outside the Semuc Champey entrance, or the budget buffet next to the yellow bridge. If none of these appeal to your appetite, lunch in Lanquín is all that is left. Colectivos stop running around 1700 so to risk it for the dinner biscuit, arrange your plans around your hostel’s new arrivals pickup.
Not everything grows on trees. An apparently challenging concept for some to comprehend. Before balking at higher hostel food prices, recall your journey from Cobán to Semuc Champey, and now consider repeating the process every time you run low on milk or better yet booze.
A day consuming grocery run broken up by a perilous puzzle of packing the truck with the precious, purchased pieces. The tinkling of glass jars and the rumbles of loose vegetables rolling about keeps the driver on edge along the rocky road of return. So most likely, no, your accommodation does not have Greek yogurt or oat milk. Tough schnapps.
Things to do in Semuc Champey
As you approach the entrance to the pools or the yellow bridge, prepare yourself for a slew of persistent sales pitches. Tour guides, chocolatiers, and cerveza dealers greet each passerby with persuasive advertisements.
Semuc Champey Pools
Seduced into coming by the songs of turquoise pools rippling from the mouths of tourists before you, it seems you have fallen victim to the Semuc Champey sirens.
The Cahabón River rushes to bury itself below this limestone formation, its top layer painted in splotches of liquid blue. Opt for no guide and uncover the natural reality from this magical oddity for yourself with a 50 Q single-entry ticket. Savor that last cigarette as smoking is prohibited once inside. For those staying in Lanquín catch a 20-35 Q colectivo to cover the 40 minute ride.
Approach the mirador sign and cautiously clamber upwards for an enchanting aerial view. Out of breath? Pause at one of the fruit sales along the way of this 30-40 minute slippery slope.
The surrounding foliage emits an unfamiliar noise. Upon closer inspection the fabled siren melodies are demystified as howler monkey shrieks. A startling discovery no doubt but the dazzling electric blue of the pools below, mere puddles at this height, are far more astonishing.
Unfortunately, inclimate weather occasionally demonstrates its artistic power by churning the water and limestone sediment into a frothy sand shade.
Sink into the refreshingly cool waters following the mirador hike. Laze afloat or leapfrog from pool to pool. With each rock its own slick slide water shoes are recommended. Lockers and bathroom facilities are available for those in need.
Cave Tour
If you thought carrying a brimming cup of coffee was challenging, try swimming through a cave one handed while the other balances a wax dripping candle.
Although you came to Semuc Champey for the enchanting serenity of the pools, allow your adrenaline to surge as you blindly scale a waterfall, treacherously throw yourself from an 8 meter high cliff, and skeptically test geometry by dropping through a considerably small hole into the unknown depths below. Hats off to those who complete this quest unscathed. Water shoes are required.
The cave tour actually includes a trilogy of treasures. Following your spelunk, prepare for a dunk in the Cahabón River.
Hung between 2 towering poles, a single swing is drawn up and away from the water’s edge for the loading process. Once seated, a rider precariously plunges down between the 2 poles and is sent soaring over the river, landing with a less than graceful splash.
Finally collapse into an innertube and float along for a soothing but brief transition from action mode back to reality.
Don’t forget to tip your guide.
Tubing
Captained by the current of the Cahabón River, let your body revel in a languorous float. No need to pack a cooler, beer cans are a simple catapult away as bartenders flock the banks. Rent an innertube next to the yellow bridge, the same place as the cave tour entrance.
A guide is recommended for deciphering the whispering whims of the water and pointing out the exit. Rouse your lifeless limbs into sudden activity as you splash towards the shore, and the tables are turned, your raft resting atop as you drift your way back by foot for rental return.
Lanquín
Coming down from your jungle fever? Reconnect with society in the tiny town of Lanquín. Hop aboard a collectivo for the 40 minute wooden roller coaster ride from Semuc Champey. Restock bathroom supplies or just spend the day perusing.
Places to Stay in Semuc Champey
Greengo’s Hotel
Have you ever seen anything so full of splendor?
An overwhelming verdant reflection greets the eye as everything the light touches is green. That is the surrounding corn covered hills of course. The hotel decor itself is anything but monochromatic. As if it were a doll house, the hotel is missing a wall. Instead of picture frames and window panes, guests are forced to carpe diem as it breathes in upon them.
An open air main floor, scattered with tables along with a pillow pit, offers fulfillment for a range of desires. From food and drinks to books and games, satisfy all your inner cravings. Hint: If you are feeling frisky, get a game of jumbo jenga going.
The water color of the pool may pale in comparison to that of Semuc Champey, but the poolside bar will beguile you into thinking otherwise. Cartoonish in appearance, motley colored, triangular shaped houses semi-circle the rectangular pool. Alas, dorm dwellers are separated from the villagers. Tucked in beneath (and soon to be above) the main floor, their triple decker bunks provide a bedtime scare for sleep rolling tops.
Having quite the social calendar, the wifi goes out midday and returns early evening only to disappear once again after 2000. With the wifi turned off, it’s time to tune in to the fact that you are in the jungle and drop out of the social media network.
A rigid midnight bedtime is also enforced by the loss of electricity, but as they say nothing good happens after dark. The flexibility of this rule is occasionally tested with an after hours bonfire.
Homemade hummus, fresh baked pita, shakshuka (poached eggs in tomato ), and a footlong shawarma (chicken wrap), time to hit pause on the Central American cuisine and turn your gaze towards the Middle East. Aside from the staples the menu is additionally rounded off with a collection of rotating dishes, be sure to also take advantage of guest appearances from the memulain (stuffed peppers) and schnitzel. Had enough adventure for one day? Pizza and tacos will delight the naive tastebuds of any picky peasant.
With a surplus of showers, accept the hygienic challenge of discovering the winner of water pressure. Thankfully, hot water has already been gifted as a consolation prize to all of the participants (although a lengthy warmup may be required).
Dorms and private rooms are available.
