Places to Eat in Tbilisi
9MTA
Craving craft brews? Rejoice as 9MTA has the full spectrum. This brewery is only 5 minutes from Liberty Square and offers both indoor and outdoor seating. With an entire cabinet of games, entice the whole family or roll the dice on a game night destined for debauchery. I tried the Georgian salad with sulguni cheese as well as mushroom and meat khinkali.
Amo Rame
This lovely, little spot lies 10 minutes from Liberty Square and is easily missed. The name is forthtelling as it means something pleasurable. An ambiance ideal for a date night or group of friends. I tried the Adjaruli khachapuri and lobio.
Barbarestan $$
**Foodie Alert** Nominated by The World’s 50 Best under Discovery, this restaurant offers a 19th century twist. All recipes are based on Georgia’s own feminist writer and chef, Barbara Jorjadze’s original cookbook which was first published in 1874. A hidden gem uncovered at the Dry Bridge Market. Reservations are recommended for this fine dining experience. I tried the salmon rolls with pickled vegetables, pkhlovana, salmon with black vermicelli, and roasted pig.
Bernard
If you’re looking for a spot to post up during the game, this sports bar offers both indoor and outdoor seating. What they don’t offer is speed. Their terribly slow service suggests they are more invested in the game than customers. I tried the pork shashlik.
Burger House
Missing Western cuisine? Well, order up. This burger joint is located right on Rustaveli Street. Stick to the classics or switch up the game with shrimp or rabbit meat. I won’t say it’s all natural as some of the buns seem to follow the Pretty Patties recipe coming out yellow or black. Regardless it is sure to satiate your craving. All burgers are served with fries and coleslaw. The owner’s admiration for art is transparent as the space seems to house the spillover from his other restaurant, Salobie Bia. I tried the cheese burger and teriyaki chicken burger.
Cafe Daphna
Head here for lunch after completing your Soviet souvenir shopping spree at the Dry Bridge Market as it lies just down the street from Dedaena Park. I tried the dambalkhacho (aged cheese) khinkali, veal salad, and lentil cream soup. I’m a fan of all cheeses, but I have to admit, dambalkhacho had a barnyard taste that I can do without.
Chashnagiri
Translating to the quintessential mix of meat and vegetables, Chashnagiri promises a well balanced meal. With three different locations, there’s no reason to skip out on the good stuff. I tried some shashlik, nigvziani badrijani, and bell peppers with walnut puree.
Culinarium Khasheria
Supplement a spa day with a revitalizing lunch in the Abanotubani district. If you’re still sagging from lingering libations and unable to sweat through sanitation, although a sulfur soak would be beneficial, crawl forth and seek your restoration. Digest last night’s decisions along with a bowl of tripe soup, an unsurprising menu feature as Khasheria translates to tripe. Containing legendary curative properties, this dish guarantees to broth you back to life. I tried the khasheria soup, pkhali sampler, and pumpkin fries with tkemali sauce.
Czech Beer House
Got a game to watch? Check it out here. The menu medley of Georgian and Czech cuisine pairs perfectly with a few too many pilsners. If you’re traveling with a rowdy sports fan prone to causing a scene or perhaps you just prefer an air of exclusivity, consider the VIP room.
Honore
If your early bird punctuality has trained you into arriving lightyears before departure, well that is unfortunate. But on the upside, this graciously gives you time for some bumping barbecue before chugging on to destinations unknown. Just a ten minute stroll from the train station, this place carries a relaxed vibe with outdoor seating. I tried the eggplant and soup.
Keto & Kote $
Named after Georgia’s first comic opera, Keto and Kote is a tale of two young lovers determined to overcome all obstacles. Dazzle your starry eyed partner with a romantic dinner and spectacular views on the garden terrace. Unlike the opera, the only humorous aspect here is how challenging it was to find the entrance. Approach the dead end and swing right. Continue along the sidewalk path, and the destination will be on your left. Reservations are recommended, spontaneity be damned. I tried the Georgian salad, mini cheese khinkali, and pulled pork.
Khinkali House Iveroni (ხინკლის სახლი ივერონი)
The Khinkali House highlights a 2 for 1 sensory special. Tantalize your taste buds with the country’s classics as your every bite is serenaded with a mashup of traditional and current songs. The sign is in Georgian but don’t let that deter you. Keep walking down. You will pass a dining floor with fishtanks but do not fall for this diversion. Continue your descent until you reach the basement. Indecisive? Take a deep breath as this will undoubtedly be the most daunting menu you’ll encounter. My advice, bring a crowd to justify a feast. I tried the tolma, shashlik, nigvziani badrijani, kebab, khachapuri on the spit, blini (pancakes with meat), and spinach pkhali.
If you’re a believer in sticking to the latest trends, perhaps you’ll prefer their newer location on Rustaveli near the Bicycle monument. Either way, the two locations are within a block of each other.
Lagidze Water
A trip to Georgia is not complete without allowing the famous Lagidze Water to quench your thirst. This soda water flavored with varying natural syrups is all the craze. It seems Georgia is just a step behind the US in the seltzer madness. There’s no need to visit their specific cafes as the water is found on menus throughout the country. If you see someone sipping on a green potion, it (probably) isn’t absinthe, but the crowd favorite tarragon flavor. In case you do find yourself on an enlightening tour of the Holy Trinity Church, stop off at this hydration station for some khachapuri.
Melograno
Italian on your mind? If by some odd phenomenon, you’re past the khachapuri craze but still craving carbs, have yourself a pasta party. Romanticize the evening dining on their charming patio or make it casual with some saucy noodz. I tried the alfredo and gnocchi pastas.
Pasanauri
Tucked around the corner from Liberty Square, space is limited with just a dollop of tables inside and out. A tiny town residing South of Stepantsminda, Pasanauri has a known calling for khinkali. If size matters, their establishment may be small but their menu won’t disappoint. I tried the assorted vegetables and phlovani khachapuri.
Racha
Around the corner from Liberty Square, descend into this dimly lit dungeon. The owners certainly aren’t concerned with impressions of ambiance. Place your order at the counter, and you won’t have long to wait. It may be no frills, but that certainly doesn’t impact their home cooked taste. Here’s hoping you brought cash to settle your score at the counter. I tried the ostri and nigvziani badrijani.
Republic 24
If savoury doesn’t satisfy and like the Fremen, you prefer some spice in your life, try Republic 24. With a pinch of pizazz they’ve creatively zested up the classics. Sandwiched between Rustaveli and the Bicycle monument, picturesque views of the city and Mtkvari river are also included (free of charge). I tried the Asian meat khinkali and Georgian salad.
Sakhli #11 $
Sakhli, meaning home, carries an unrepresentative name as there was nothing homely about it. Just across the street from the brewery 9MTA and a 5 minute walk from Liberty Square, this restaurant offers an elegant end to your day. For once, skip the khachapuri and instead indulge your taste buds with some of Georgia’s gourmet meat dishes. Seating is available both inside and out. I tried the Georgian salad, lamb, and kuchmachi.
Salobie Bia
Not only will you be sure to appreciate their eclectic art gallery, but additionally feel a sense of personal pride in your ability to locate this basement eatery. Hidden among the Rustaveli museums, Salobie Bia illustrates a simple selection for lunch. You might consider the name Salobie, meaning beanhouse, as a subliminal suggestion on what to order. Contrary to Western comprehension, this implies lobio as opposed to the caffeine kind. No need to brew, instead opt for a carafe of their homemade lemonade. This may seem daunting for those of us dining solo, but they will happily transfer the remainder into a take-home container. I tried the chikhirtma soup and homemade lemonade.
Shavi Lomi
This place is worth a palate perusal if you find yourself in search of a dinner spot on the other side of the Mtkvari river (opposite Liberty Square). There are no signs marking the entrance, a recurring theme in Tbilisi, but there is a mural covering a doorway. Pass through the threshold and find yourself on their garden patio. Clearly preferring a pictorial form of communication, a shavi lomi (black lion) is painted on the courtyard wall. Reservations aren’t necessarily required. I tried the cherry soup, gobhi, khachapuri, and eggplant with walnuts.
Sofia Melnikovas
Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of Rustaveli? Tucked behind the Rustaveli Theater, find the yellow door on the left side of the alleyway and emerge into this secret garden. Relish your lunch beneath a cloud of grape vines. I tried the meat khinkali, ajapsandali and phlovani.
Sormoni $
If you find yourself drifting towards the Tbilisi mall, you’re in the right neighborhood to enjoy a peaceful lunch on Sormoni’s garden terrace. I tried the coffee with ice cream, kubdari and phlovani (with dambalkhacho) khachapuri.
Tea House
Trying to impress your pretty princess with a pinkies up tea time? Chai again. A multilevel cavern of dimly lit dens draped with tapestries and the remains of sewing machines, this place whistles to a different tune. Far from a loose thread, a sweet pairing is still customary with an order of waffles with ice cream. I tried the gazpacho and spicy Asian pork noodles.
Do NOT Eat Here
Narikala Restaurant
Normally, I tend to avoid the touristy eateries but due to some stubborn stomach grumbles, we succumbed as a result of its proximity. Unsurprisingly, it would have been quicker to appease our appetites elsewhere as the service was abysmal. The food was overpriced and unappealing. Consider us the disgruntled victims of this tourist trap.
Places to Drink in Tbilisi
Unfortunately, I visited during COVID times, so clubs were closed.
Bamboo
This lounge bar can be found bordering the traffic circle near Rike Park. The front consists of patio seating with some garden shrubbery. The doorman bluntly asked us if we had a reservation and was initially ready to send us packing when we declined. Luck was on our side though and instead he escorted us to the last remaining stools along the bar. The lounge, like most, is divided into sectioned pockets containing couches and low tables. The place was absolutely packed. A DJ serenaded the crowded dance floor with a mixture of house and the latest pop hits.
At one point, happy birthday came on and the bar staff brought out a candled cake to one of the tables. It suddenly occurred to me that we clearly had crashed a birthday party. This thought quickly changed to utter bewilderment as I turned to see at least six different birthday cakes being delivered at random to the lounge patrons. I have not a clue as to why this occurred but who needs a reason when it comes to cake. So I would say either we visited during a birthday bonanza or reservations are recommended.
Barmaglot
As you stroll along restaurant studded Galaktion Tabidze Street, you will notice a tunnel that seemingly will whisk you away to Wonderland. Contrary to the rabbit hole’s appearance, Barmaglot has a bit of a fancy feel. I am told the pate is exquisite, but having seen the film, I could not be tempted for fear of shrinking. Although the tabletops scattered around their courtyard are adorned with teacup flower pots, the waiters are hatless and anything but mad. You can expect topnotch service to go along with their cocktail menu.
Boogie Woogie
Can’t get enough of the Tbilisi skyline? Check out this rooftop bar. This place can be a little tricky to locate but do not let that deter you. Upon arrival you will see the building for Art Cafe. Ignore the yellow door and instead enter the one to the right. Again, off to the right you will see a door. Go ahead and ring that bell.
Someone will kindly grant you entry to a tastefully decorated staircase. Begin your ascent. Along the way you will spectate a dance floor whose twinkling, string-lighted canopy has you flashing back to season one of Stranger Things. You will also notice a tiny veranda but do not fall for this temptress. Your goal is all the way at the top and offers a fantastic view of the city with shimmery streamers waving overhead. Use the QR code to order one of their creative cocktails or some bar snacks to kick off your night as you watch the sun set.
Canudos
Grab a chair at one of the patio tables beneath a tree lined sky filled with paper lanterns. This place is great to meet up with friends for a chill evening accompanied by some classic rock. Enter into a dimly lit bar with a retro aesthetic. Order up a cocktail or a draft beer from one of the bartenders, and do not be shocked if it takes them a minute due to a spontaneous interpretive dance to mirror the current song. Enjoy the show and the vibes.
Coco
This is a charming, family owned establishment located beneath the Tbilisi streets. The painted walls depict colorful, grape Georgian vibes which pair nicely with the wine cellar ambiance. Coco offers a full menu but for us that night was dedicated to debauchery. The son of the owners happily fueled our endeavor by serving us multiple shots of homemade chacha. The Sakartvelo catalyst for any adventurous night. Coco is also noteworthy for their bloody mary’s. This is a cute spot to meet up for evening dinner or drinks.
Rudeboy
If you are walking around the Liberty Square surrounding area, Rude Boy is tough to miss. The storefront consists of a high top table offering indoor and outdoor stools for those desiring some fresh air or more likely a cigarette. This open front draws the full attention of pedestrians strolling by towards the flashy, neon signage and spunky art displays. The menu offers a full page of cocktails which includes all the staples and a bartender who’s pour has yet to disappoint. As this one table tends to collect all the smokers, this offers an easy atmosphere for meeting new people.
Saxelosno
During a time where clubs are basically banned, this place breaks the silence with the steady bass of house music. Saxelosno is located beneath Rike park along the Mtkvari river. If the clock has yet to strike midnight, the party resides inside. Up a flight of stairs, you will find a decently sized open floor plan with guns adorning the wall. Live music is performed on a small stage to entertain the dancefloor. Once the witching hour strikes, the party moves outside due to COVID regulations. Both DJ set and bar are erected right next to the water and the remaining space is filled with dancers. This establishment does use face control, so ensure you stun the camera with a special smile.
Soda Bar
Looking for a spot to get your night started or perhaps just need a break from the daytime heat, check out this Russian owned cocktail lounge. Soda Bar is a small place offering a few tables inside and even fewer outside. In some cases, size does not matter. This place offers creative cocktails for those who appreciate the artistry of bartending. Their presentation almost deters you from taking that first sip.The drink menu is broken into categories, sweet, sour, long, strong and aperitif, to help guide you in your selection, but honestly you cannot go wrong.
Teorema
If you find yourself on the other side of the Mtkvari river (opposite from Liberty Square), check this place out. The gated entryway houses a large courtyard sectioned into various hangout spots. There are even a couple pavilions providing shaded tables for those desperately trying to escape the summer heat. Despite the loud house music vibrating through the air, this is an ideal spot to chill with a group of friends to get the night started.
Warsaw
This is my favorite dive bar in Tbilisi. Warsaw is a tiny spot equally divided between the patrons and staff by the bar. There are a few benches and stools outside which are usually all occupied presenting the image of a small group loitering outside the door. The interior walls are covered in old newspapers and display some entertaining posters. Sadly and contrary to the name, you will not be able to find any Polish beers. What they do have includes beer on tap as well as bottled, cocktails and flavored chacha shots. The bar showcases an eclectic crowd of repeat customers which are always willing to incorporate newcomers.
Wine Factory
Feeling fancy? If you like the layout of Fabrika but feel it is too young of a crowd, this is a must visit. Similar to Fabrika, Wine Factory is a walled in block containing a multitude of restaurants and bars with appearily plenty of seating that surprisingly fills up. It may lack the historic soviet vibes and colorful streamers strung overhead, instead boasting an artistic garden aesthetic. Rest at ease as the space still includes a disco ball.
The cuisine options offer a wide variety to choose from, including Mexican, Italian, Sushi, BBQ and of course classic Georgian. Unfortunately for the spontaneous, most of the restaurants require reservations. If you are unable to claim a table for dinner, turn it into a liquid diet at one of the many bars. The ambiance feels classier than Fabrika but do not feel obligated to dress up. Keep in mind, there are two separate entrances which can lead to some confusion if you are meeting up with people.
Candy
This Wine Factory bar will leave you grinning, if you have a sweet tooth for gin. Candy is an adorable spot that offers cocktails in addition to fruit “infused” gin and tonics. I add the quotations as the cherry cocktail was simply a G&T with 2 cherries added… hardly an infusion. Perhaps this differs based on the selected flavor. The cocktails on the other hand were great. Candy also has a small food menu. I tried to order a salad but alas it was no longer available.
Woland
From the outside, this establishment appears as a classic American diner, but once the sun goes down and the sign is flipped to closed, an underground bar emerges. No password needed. To gain entrance, simply knock on the door and someone will unlock the gate to this speakeasy. At the back of the diner, is a dark staircase which descends into debauchery. Watch your step. Beneath the diner charade are two floors. The first floor contains a foosball table and tables. The bottom floor houses the bar in addition to a smoker lounge. I definitely recommend trying at least one of their cocktails. The drink list is extensive and should be able to satiate your craving.
