SAKARTVELO AKA GEORGIA

• Borjomi
• Gori
• Rustavi
• Tbilisi
• Tbilisi Restaurants & Bars
• Tusheti

Why visit… 

• Mountains – Glorious sights and a hiker’s delight.
• Khachapuri – If you could have pizza for every meal, this is the place for you. Khachapuri is the cheesy bread that’s been missing from your life.
• Cheap – On a budget? Live it up without breaking the bank. 
• Wine – Welcome to (one of) the birthplace(s).
• Friendly – The country is overwhelmed with dogs and cats. More of a people person? Their sincerely, welcoming hospitality leaves you with an extended forever family.

Struggle country for….

• Coffee Lovers – Expect instant.
• Gluten Free – Bread is served with every meal and the country highlights, khachapuri & khinkali, contain gluten, but there are plenty of alternatives so you’ll live
• Timid Women – The men are upfront and relentless, but they do take “no” for an answer so you’ll live
• Animal Allergy – It literally is raining cats and dogs throughout Georgia, but they typically will not pester you so you’ll live
• LGBTQ+ Community – The 2021 pride march was canceled due to protests that led to destruction of property, many injuries as well as the death of a journalist. The country holds strong Orthodox Christian values. With that being said, Tbilisi (the capital) has bars and social settings for everyone. This country is okay to visit but caution is worthwhile.
• Insolence regarding relations with…
  • Russia – Georgia briefly gained independence from the Russian Empire in 1918 only to be invaded by the Bolsheviks in 1921. Although independence was achieved in 1991, territory disputes continue over the Russian supported Republic of South Ossetia and the Republic of Abkhazia, both internationally recognized as part of Georgia. The Russo-Georgian War erupted in 2008 thus ending diplomatic relations.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Requirements are dependent on citizenship. 

For US citizens, a visa is not required. US travelers are able to visit Georgia for an entire year. The visitation year resets each time you leave and re-enter Georgia. 

The vaccine card with all required doses or a PCR test are sufficient for entry by air. Currently a PCR test is required if entering by land or sea regardless of vaccination status. Check the link below for the latest updates.

Remember to check your entry requirements for returning home.

Some countries do require a visa or e-visa.  Click the links below to check the list and submit an e-visa. The application costs $20 and the length of validity is country dependent. Processing takes up to five days. 

Some countries, including the US, must submit a registration form for entry. Click the link below to check the list and complete the form. 

LANGUAGE

Learning a new language can be quite the undertaking especially one that uses a different alphabet and is specific to a single country. The Georgian alphabet contains 33 letters. Personally, I always try to make an effort to at least learn a few common words while traveling to a new country as the locals tend to appreciate the effort. See below for a starter pack.

Eliminate guesswork and ramble on with Russian. Otherwise, English floats in cities but expect to play some charades in the outskirts. 

English	Georgian	Pronunciation
Hi	Gamarjoba	Ga-mor-ja-ba
Bye	Nakhvamdis	Nakh-vam-dis
Yes	Ki or Ho	Key or Ho
No	Ara	Ara
Thanks	Madloba	Mad-lo-ba
You’re welcome	Arapris	Ara-pris
Please	Tu Sheidzleba	Tu She-id-zle-ba
Excuse me	Ukatsravad	U-kats-ra-vad
One	Erti	Er-tee
Two	Ori	Or-ee
Water	Tskali	Tska-li
Beer	Ludi	Lu-dee
Wine	Ghvino	Gh-vino
Cheers	Gaumarjos	Gau-mar-jos

WIFI & SIM CARD

There is free airport WiFi allowing you to orient yourself and book that first Bolt or Yandex upon arrival. Tbilisi also offers free WiFi via Tbilisi Loves You although it is quite spotty. Just about every establishment offers WiFi as long as you do not mind asking for the password.

I recommend picking up a SIM card from a Magti store. Stores are located throughout Georgia and in all the major cities (Tbilisi, Batumi, Kutaisi & Zugdidi). The staff speak English and make it a very straightforward process. Upon entering the store, grab a ticket and wait for your number to be called. The service is fantastic throughout Georgia. I only experienced issues with connectivity in Tusheti but had no problems in the other mountainous regions.

The SIM card costs 2 GEL, and they allow you to select your number from a list. Magti offers unlimited data for 22 GEL per 30 days, 5 GEL per week or 1 GEL for 24 hours. There are also some options that include calling minutes combined with data. The MyMagti app is simple to use for refueling your package. Your login is just your Georgian phone number (without the area code).

Note: Passport required for purchase.

CURRENCY

• Banknotes: Georgian Lari (GEL) ლ comes in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 & 200
• Coins: Georgian Tetri comes in 1, 5, 10, 20, 50; 1 & 2 GEL
• Card is accepted at most establishments in the major cities (Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi, Zugdidi) but you should absolutely carry cash.
• ATMs (Bankomats) are few and far between outside the major cities (Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi, Zugdidi), so be sure to stock up. The most common options are Bank of Georgia, TBC Bank & Liberty Bank.

Note: The ATMs are doppelgangers with the automated machines for refueling your Metromoney card. If the screen displays pictures of transportation, you have unfortunately selected the wrong machine.

TRANSPORTATION

Quick Facts

• Bolt, Yandex & taxis are available
• Get a metromoney card in Tbilisi if you like buses & metro
• Marshrutkas (minivans) are great for day trips
• Train is available for Tbilisi, Batumi, Zugdidi, Kutaisi & Yerevan
• Domestic flights via Vanillasky for Tbilisi, Mestia & Batumi
• International airports include Tbilisi, Batumi & Kutaisi
• Hitchhiking is normal

Riding in a car/minibus here is an experience in itself. You can expect a single lane road to suddenly transform into 3 lanes and some very close calls when it comes to passing vehicles. A majority of cars appear to be survivors showcasing battered exteriors which would lead one to conclude that crashes are common. Surprisingly, I did not witness a single incident.

If you see your driver or other passengers perform the cross several times along your journey, this has nothing to do with your wellbeing. The vehicle is safe, the passengers are comfortable and your driver is in no way nervous. It is a common practice to perform the cross 3 times whenever you see a church.

The cars are imported, so the steering wheel may appear on either side as this depends on the providing country. This can cause some confusion when you attempt to address the driver only to find another passenger staring back at you.

Taxi

Always an option. One that I personally tend to avoid. As a Westerner, I prefer card over cash as well as locked in prices. The taxis here only accept cash. Additionally if you do not speak Georgian (or Russian), you can expect a higher fare compared to the natives. 

I would definitely avoid it when it comes to airport travel. If you do decide to submit to the ever-persistent taxi drivers in the arrival area, expect a surcharge. Do not accept a ride that costs more than 80 GEL; Generally, the average scam cost is 60-70 GEL. If you look like a tourist, the drivers will try to raise the price even higher. I know someone who got suckered into paying over 200 GEL, so stand your ground.

A ride to the airport using other platforms should cost you no more than 35 GEL. 

Apps: Bolt & Yandex

This is my recommendation for airport travel.

These apps are only an option in major hubs (Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi & Zugdidi).

The residential “streets” in some cities, Tbilisi especially, are absurd. You may find that your accommodation is located off one of the smart car size alleyways up a blackdiamond level steep hill. Oftentimes drivers are understandably not up for this sort of challenge and may refuse your requested pickup/dropoff location, instead opting for a wider, flatter, nearby street corner. Something to keep in mind if you have a heavy load.

Bolt: My favorite form of transportation. The app is connected to your card, so no cash is needed. Most rides around a city will cost < 15 GEL. Even for trips 30-60 minutes away, I never paid more than 40 GEL. The one downside is accuracy when it comes to how far away your driver is. Generally not an issue, but there were a couple times where the driver was supposedly 5 minutes away and ended up taking 15 minutes to arrive. Just something to keep in mind, if you are on a tight schedule.

Yandex: A very common app in Eastern Europe. I did not use Yandex as it still requires cash payments, but it was a popular option for others.

Bus

Like many places around the world, this is probably a great option. It costs 30 tetri (coins) to ride the bus. Exact change is required, or you can use your metromoney card. 

I tried to ride the bus exactly one time in Tbilisi from Didube station. I was not prepared. I realized my mask was tangled among the bags I was carrying as I got onto the bus. The attendant continuously (and reasonably) yelled at me in Georgian to put on my mask. Eventually I succeeded, at which point he began instructing me to pay. Unfortunately, I did not have exact change. He then addressed the surrounding passengers, requesting for someone to assist the incompetent tourist. The lady next to me provided me with the appropriate change, and finally we departed. Two stops later, I realized the bus was traveling in the opposite direction of my desired location. I promptly got off and called a bolt. End scene.

Private Car

Maybe you are not up for driving in a foreign country, you find map navigation challenging, you prefer your personal space or maybe you just enjoy drinking. All fair reasons to consider hiring a private car.

If you are trying to plan a day trip from Tbilisi, I would recommend using Mytrip. It is a flat rate for the day and you can add as many stops as you desire. There is no need to book far in advance. You also select your driver from the available options which is ideal for circumventing language barriers. Cash is a necessity and tips are always appreciated. The downside is that the starting location must be in Tbilisi, and you can only select stops from their curated list. I found this to be frustrating as some of the smaller wineries did not appear. In these situations you instead enter the general city/town name and can detail the precise locations in a note to the driver.

I used this service for a day trip to explore the wine region of Kakheti with my sister. We booked the night before and our driver was quick to reach out over Whatsapp. He arrived promptly the next morning and turned out to be a true delight. Offering us both snacks in addition to a bottle of his family’s homemade wine to start the journey, taking us on an impromptu hike at a passing viewpoint as well as playing the part of constant photographer. The trip cost around 200 GEL.

If you are not a fan of the website layout or need a driver outside of Tbilisi, just ask your host. Whether it be hostel, hotel or guesthouse, I guarantee they can connect you. Just ensure you confirm the price beforehand and expect to pay with cash.

Marshrutka (Minibus)

If you are looking for an affordable option to travel from town to town, and you play nicely with others, this is the way to go. 

Generally most trips cost under 30 GEL. Cash is a necessity, but there is no need to have exact change. This is an excellent opportunity for you to break those large bills. Typically you will pay the driver once you arrive at your desired destination, but in some cases, you will need to buy a ticket. If this case is your case, the driver will inform you and point out the ticket office. There is no AC, so if you overheat easily, try to situate yourself near one of the window seats. Marshrutkas generally will not leave until full, so they are not held to a strict time schedule. Trunk space is available but otherwise you’re limited to your own lap or foot space. 

I would strongly recommend translating the destination into Georgian for your own reference (See below for some common destinations). Some of the buses will have signs on the dashboard written in English in addition to Russian and Georgian but many others only have the sign in Georgian. This is not a necessity though as the drivers and assistants will be shouting out the names of their destinations. Additionally, the people in this country are always happy to help, so if you find yourself lost in translation just ask the nearest person, and they will point you in the right direction.

English	Georgian	Russian
Tbilisi	თბილისი	Тбилиси
Batumi	ბათუმი	Батуми
Gori	გორი	Гори
Kazbegi	ყაზბეგი	Казбеги
Kutaisi	ქუთაისი	Кутаиси
Mestia	მესტია	Местия
Sighnaghi	სიღნაღი	Сигнаги
Telavi	თელავი	Телави

Train

The train definitely is not the fastest travel option but is nice if you value the extra leg room and are not in a hurry. Tickets can be purchased online via https://tkt.ge/railway or at the station ticket booth. Ensure you remember to bring your passport as this will be checked prior to boarding. The train does not offer too many options but can be used to travel to the major spots (ex. Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi or Zugdidi) in Georgia as well as to Yerevan in Armenia. Within Georgia, you have the option of first or second class. The only real difference is that first class is slightly more spacious. Both options include a USB port. 

Train to Yerevan

Has the Armenian allure stirred a sudden Yerevan yearning? Odd days (1, 3, 5,…), bring Armenian adventures. Summertime, June to September, evens out the schedule thus departing everyday. Board the rockaby railway at 2020 and start a new day in Yerevan at 0700. Those in it for the summertime long haul, June to September, can leave from Batumi at 1530 as opposed to Tbilisi at 2245 for a 0730 start in Yerevan.

A class system in place, prices range from 80-160 GEL. Top or bottom? The imperative question for 2nd and 3rd class travelers. A bottom bunk (Нижнее) comes at a higher price. Kids under five ride for free and those between five and ten are discounted. If needed, your visa (E-Visa) will be required for purchase.

• 1st Class (Spalny Vagon / CB) – 2 bed compartment
• 2nd Class (Compartment / Купейный) – 4 bed compartment
• 3rd Class (Platskartny / Плацкарт) – open-plan beds

No need to bring your own blanket as the train has you covered. Attendees pass out sealed packages containing sheets and a towel. Each bunk is also afforded an outlet. As with all public restrooms assume the worst and pack your own paper. BYOB in addition to snacks to satisfy cravings and maybe meet your neighbor.

Nary a nightmare experienced through border crossing. Passports were collected following departure and redistributed with the morning sun.

Plane

If you are trying to plan your next international move and find yourself in Western Georgia, save yourself some time by not backtracking to Tbilisi and instead consider flying out of either Batumi or Kutaisi.

Additionally, if you prefer the open skies to bumpy marshrutka rides, consider a domestic flight via Vanilla Sky. They offer flights between Tbilisi and Mestia or Batumi.

Hitchhiking

I used it twice for short trips and both times waited for less than two minutes. Once while visiting Batumi, a friend and I hitched from Sarpi located near the Turkish border to get back into the city. A welcoming father and his two sons picked us up. By the end of the 20 minute trip, the father had graciously given us his contact information and encouraged us to reach out for anything at all. The second time, my brother and I hitched a ride from Tbilisi Sea to the nearest metro. I met plenty of people along my journey who used hitchhiking to go back and forth across the country without any issues. Just like with any dorm hostel, you never know who you will end up with but there is usually a story that comes out of it.

FOOD 

The food is delicious but will make you begin to question whether you have a dairy sensitivity. Bread, as in an entire basket, is served with every meal. Sometimes this is included but usually comes as a minimal charge. Cucumbers and tomatoes are also generally present. 

Customarily, food is brought out upon completion. In other words, you may receive your appetizer as a dessert or your main dish only after the rest of the table has finished eating. Making the nicety of waiting for everyone to have their own food a tad preposterous. This is further seen as unnecessary as most meals carry a shareable plates vibe. A win for those indecisive souls and those always asking for one bite. Typically, the food will be presented on serving dishes and each diner will receive a personal plate. Don’t be offended if the waiter asks if you would like a new plate or silverware mid-meal. This is not a judgment of your table manners, but a common practice to simply prevent tainting of flavor profiles. 

• Fresh Fruit (especially peaches and pomegranates)
• Khachapuri – regional cheese bread comparative to a quesadilla pizza (hold the marinara)
  • Adjaruli – world famous bread boat shape filled with a cheesy mixture and a cracked egg; Swirl the contents until thoroughly mixed and then tear apart to eat.
  • Imeruli – cheese filled bread resembling a quesadilla
  • Megruli – cheese pizza without the marinara
  • Kubdari – meat filled bread resembling a quesadilla
  • Lobiani – bean filled bread resembling a quesadilla
  • Phlovani – microgreen and cheese filled bread resembling a quesadilla
• Khinkali – soup dumplings containing meat, potatoes, cheese or mushrooms; Use a fork to pierce the nipple or grasp it by hand. Take a small bite of the underside and slurp up the juices. Eat the dumpling, leaving just the tip as it is purely dough. 
• Puri – fresh baked bread
• Meat
  • Mtsvadi – barbequed meats
  • Shashlik – grilled meats served with onions
  • Kuchmachi – seasoned chicken livers and hearts with walnuts
  • Cutleti – seasoned minced meat cutlet served with mashed potatoes
• Soup
  • Ostri – thick beef stew with some spice (those with a decent spice tolerance would only consider it flavorful)
  • Kharcho – beef and walnut stew
  • Chikhirtma – chicken soup
• Vegetarian
  • Georgian salad – cucumbers and tomatoes in sunflower oil; sometimes includes a walnut puree or sulguni cheese 
  • Nigvziani badrijani – aubergine / eggplant rolls stuffed with a walnut or garlic puree and topped with pomegranate seeds
  • Lobio – bean stew
  • Ajapsandali – aubergine / eggplant ratatouille 
  • Jonjoli – pickled sprouts
  • Soko kecze – Mushrooms stuffed with sulguni cheese
  • Pkhali – vegetable walnut thick spreads (usually beet, aubergine / eggplant or spinach)
• Sauces
  • Adjika – Georgian spice
  • Bazhe – walnut puree 
  • Tkemali – sour plum sauce

ALCOHOL